Due to disuse and deterioration it was dismantled in the 17th century, and what remains are only the portal, a tower and a stretch of the protective wall. Just below it are enormous tufa blocks that formed a wall built by the Etruscans probably built over a pre-existing Etruscan/Roman fortress. Rocca Aldobrandesca still stands, at least in part, with walls and a tower still dominating the hilltop. The defensive center, or at least what remains of it, was once the central point of the town providing water, a bakery and even a grain warehouse. This town is ideal for those who may have problems walking because there are no ups and downs and twisting stairs. It is a paid parking lot every day, including national holidays and weekends from 8 am till 1 pm and the again from 3 pm till 8 pm. The parking is located only 20-30 meters from the main square. The town is small enough to visit in an hour, or an hour and a half if you read all the well placed signs in Italian & English telling you about the history of the monuments. This comeback makes it one of the stops to add to your itinerary. It was really only recently with the title of “one of the prettiest towns” that caused an economic reprisal, putting its treasured monuments on display and opening the doors to several cafés, restaurants and gift shops.

Left to its own devices the town fell into a slow steady decline which was aided by the insidious disease of the swamp lands: malaria. Though Sovana always seemed to be on the prospering side of history, at a certain point it took a nosedive and was practically abandoned. 1015 – AD), born Hildebrand of Sovana, who was Pope from 22 April 1073 to his death in 1085 also known as one of the great reforming popes. This saint left behind a legend and some say a treasure which was eventually turned into a world famous book: the Count of Montecristo. Sovana has the reputation as being one of the first cities to turn Christian in all of Tuscany, thanks to the evangelist S. giving some credit to the treasure of San Mamiliano and the island of Montecristo! Visit the Museum of San Mamiliano to admire the vase containing the precious coins. During the excavations, 498 gold coins that date back to the period in which San Mamiliano lived were found. In 2004, a surprise! The Church of San Mamiliano - the place where some of the saint’s relics are kept - had fallen into total disuse and came under restoration. Not an easy feat since the Romans were normally rather ' crushing' in their conquests. When they were finally forced to succumb to the Romans, Sovana became a 'Municipium' and though it was politically 'Roman', the inhabitants were inexplicably able to retain their culture, art, language and writing until the I century. As a thriving Etruscan city in the VII B.C., it was allied to Vulci (one of the largest city-states in Etruria!) in the struggle against Roman expansionism. A quick review of Suana (its original name) shows a particular resilience and strong desire to survive.

Once you know the history of Sovana, a walk through the town will give it a whole other dimension. Particularly suited for those who don’t like walking up and down hill because even though positioned on the hilltop, the town is laid out on a flat plane. Small in comparison to Sorano and Pitigliano, actually almost tiny, it has managed to retain a charm that is perfect for a quick stroll: the landscape, the food, the wine and the Parco Archeologico Città del Tufo. The town of Sovana has, fortunately, maintained its most endearing characteristics, having avoided the Baroque restyling that altered so many churches, monuments and towns in the area. Abandoned in the Middle Ages, a Medieval beauty in southern Tuscany

Sovanna at deja vu seattle